Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Agra: Incurable nostalgia

I was born in Agra. Fifteen years hence I may not consider myself a proud Agraite (and I have compelling reasons for doing so) but there are some memories of the town of my childhood that are still etched in my mind besides the Taj Mahal ofcourse!.
Dalmoth, Petha and Gajak:  The cacophony of the vendors on the trains that run on the Agra route make sure no commuter passing by Agra misses to taste the savories that have achieved an iconic status. Dalmoth and petha - vanity and pride of any Agraite. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that Dalmoth and petha is to any Agraite what vada pav is to a Mumbaite.  As a kid, I remember occasionally gorging on this humble sweet candied pumpkin during my breakfast, lunch and dinner (and the next day of course was dedicated to nursing the stomach aches). Thankfully, after I moved out of Agra, I had to cut down on my craving but gift packs of dalmoth and petha have been a ‘must’ item on my vacation shopping lists. Sinful indulgence isn’t easy to ignore you see!
Seth gali: I attribute my love for spicy things in life to Seth gali. Though it must be more than twenty years back that I last visited the place, the Seth gali ka bhalla and crisp elongated golgappas still kindle my gastronomic sensibilities. Interestingly, those days, the dingy chat outlets served the golgappas in saucers and the water in small tea cups. Damn the gods if the slurp of that tangy water didn’t stir your soul. Every spicy session therefore was well complimented with a piping hot plate of gulab jamuns. Of course, others like Bhagat Halwai and chat centre at Sadar Bazaar charmed the Agra foodie with the same fondness over the years but Seth gali to me remains an incredible experience that is more felt than tasted.
Sadar Bazaar: Away from hustling-bustling Raja ki Mandi and Kinari bazaar bylanes, walking along the clean, wide roads of Sadar Bazaar was always a joy. I loved frequenting the Modern bookstore on main road, walking down to Laxmi Vilas Palace for a crispy paper dosa and then stuffing myself with cone ice cream from the Kwality ice cream parlour while engaging in window shopping.
Six-seater tempos: These unsightly transport modes bellowing smoke wherever they rumble have only added to the chaotic conditions of the city. However, in the absence of any public transport system, you can only be thankful this cheap option at least existed. Never mind if it accommodated not six but eight to ten passengers, two dangling from the driver’s seat and others compressed to capacity on other passenger’s lap. I too have taken rides on these diesel monsters, occasionally obliging strangers leaning all their weight (and with all their might) on my feet without a protest. I am told the vehicles are now banned for environmental reasons. I only wait to see if that has made Agra’s skyline any clear?

Pedal rickshaws: Nothing better characterizes the pace of city life at Agra… slow and squeaky. Having travelled in pedal rickshaws all through my school and college years it amazes me when I wonder how I managed to reach the school before assembly time back then. Sheltered by the canopy of the rickshaw, it’s been a joy ride racing back home on a sunny afternoon after a shopping spree or enjoying the rains while the front wheel wedged through the rain water. Occasionally, when the brakes failed, some of the joy rides even ended into mishaps but pedal rickshaws still allure the Agraite in me.
Bachoomal & Sons:  There was no birthday, no Diwali, no Durga Puja celebration that was complete without buying the latest from this fashion stopover.  I and my sister have had numerous occasions to dress in some really gorgeous outfits from the Bachoomals. This was a luxury that my parents happily indulged us in even though I know the price tags even for those days were fancy. Bachoomals have long been lost the competition to the burgeoning lifestyle malls but am sure for our generation the name springs nostalgic fashion celebration.

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